I had my first experience with the feared Soldier ants of Tanzania yesterday evening. I had heard many stories of them, but had not had the chance to see or feel them in action. But I had been warned, and several people had told me they were around recently.
It was Friday evening, and we all had been working a bit hard this week. So we decided the appropriate way to manage such stresses was by having an impromptu happy hour before dinner on my back porch (which is fenced in, pictures are coming at some pt, I promise. We had a combination of vodka, an african Gin, several mixers, and several bottles of Kili beer. After we all had several beverages, we migrated to the house next door to eat dinner. It was after dinner that the trouble started.
We decided to spend the rest of the night playing Yahtzee, but the yahtzee set was in my house. I walked back to my house, which is only about 50 ft, in the dark. It was about 30 ft into this walk that i began to feel them. By the time I got to my door and into my house, my feet were covered in aboout 20-30 1cm long ants, many of them making their way up my pant legs or biting into my toes. Flicking them off once attached was extremely difficult, and even a bit painful. And I had to rapidly strip my pants off (I am sure this is where the phrase "Ants in your pants" came from) to be sure to remove those rocketing up towards my nethers.
Once removed, these beasts are impossible to kill, often taking 4-5 stomps to send them on their way.
When the sun rose this morning, I had the chance to go outside and look around for these critters. They were very much still there, burrowing through the dirt rapidly across the sidewalk and yard, marching 4-5 ants wide, erecting walls on either side of their makeshift highway with ants that were not so fortunate to survive the journey, and other ants standing on their hind legs to protect them. When they hit patches or just dirt, they burrowed, creating walls of the loose sediment. Later in the day, there were even tunnels opening along this path, where you could see the ants moving through tunnels underneath.
The amount of organization was really impressive. That being said, I hope I don't have to see these critters again. I took photos, and will try to upload to flickr when I can. I also heard there is a swahili word for these critters, when I found out what it is I will be sure to post it.
Saturday, February 28, 2009
Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Pole!
25.2.09
One week since my arrival in Mwanza,and it has been hard in many respects. Adjusting to life here has been challenging, from the change in temperature, to the change in living quarters ;) (I still promise to post pictures of my quarters here at the BUgando Guest House). ADjusting to the food, the water, the showers, the traffic, the sounds of animals I've never heard before outside my window. Missing Steph and not being on a similar schedule with her, only getting a few minutes at most a day to talk to her... All of these things have taken some serious adjusting to.
But as I listen to the din of those living in the small tin shacks jsut yards from our facility, cheering in unison watching what must be a football match, I am reminded also of the people I have met here so far. As I've already stated, my co-residents are all amazing, having come from all corners of the US, some having paid the majority of the way themselves to be here and help these people. The program director here, and all he has given to be here, moving with his entire family to Africa 2 years ago just weeks after finishing residency in the US. The residents and interns here who, despite the lack of tests they can run, or imaging they can get, try so hard to find their way around it.
And finally, the medical students. They are the future here at BMC. As the first class graduates, it reminds me of how fortunate I am to be here to teach them. How eager they all are to review a new admission with us, or discuss a new finding on physical exam. Every afternoon we get the chance to lecture to them, and helping to guide them is our primary assignment here at Bugando Medical Center. We will be gone, but they will be here to teach their own medical students just a few years from now, and then onward to go practice in their communities. Spending time with them makes all of the negatives worth while. 28 days left to help.
--
On an administrative note- As I am sure some of you are aware, my posting frequency has dropped off some. My intial goal was to find a decent internet connection here daily, and post while online. It has become apparent that this was rather unrealistic. How mzungu of me. (mzungu meaning foreigner, remember?) Fret not. I will continue to write. But they will be posted in bursts. So expect to see 2 or 3 days worth of posts at once sometimes. Also, to those who have emailed me, thank you so much for taking the time to do so. replies are forthcoming. I've installed some betaware with google gears that should let me compose replies while offline. Again, I only see myself being able to connect a few times a week, so please bear with me; they are coming!
And "Pole" means "Sorry!"
One week since my arrival in Mwanza,and it has been hard in many respects. Adjusting to life here has been challenging, from the change in temperature, to the change in living quarters ;) (I still promise to post pictures of my quarters here at the BUgando Guest House). ADjusting to the food, the water, the showers, the traffic, the sounds of animals I've never heard before outside my window. Missing Steph and not being on a similar schedule with her, only getting a few minutes at most a day to talk to her... All of these things have taken some serious adjusting to.
But as I listen to the din of those living in the small tin shacks jsut yards from our facility, cheering in unison watching what must be a football match, I am reminded also of the people I have met here so far. As I've already stated, my co-residents are all amazing, having come from all corners of the US, some having paid the majority of the way themselves to be here and help these people. The program director here, and all he has given to be here, moving with his entire family to Africa 2 years ago just weeks after finishing residency in the US. The residents and interns here who, despite the lack of tests they can run, or imaging they can get, try so hard to find their way around it.
And finally, the medical students. They are the future here at BMC. As the first class graduates, it reminds me of how fortunate I am to be here to teach them. How eager they all are to review a new admission with us, or discuss a new finding on physical exam. Every afternoon we get the chance to lecture to them, and helping to guide them is our primary assignment here at Bugando Medical Center. We will be gone, but they will be here to teach their own medical students just a few years from now, and then onward to go practice in their communities. Spending time with them makes all of the negatives worth while. 28 days left to help.
--
On an administrative note- As I am sure some of you are aware, my posting frequency has dropped off some. My intial goal was to find a decent internet connection here daily, and post while online. It has become apparent that this was rather unrealistic. How mzungu of me. (mzungu meaning foreigner, remember?) Fret not. I will continue to write. But they will be posted in bursts. So expect to see 2 or 3 days worth of posts at once sometimes. Also, to those who have emailed me, thank you so much for taking the time to do so. replies are forthcoming. I've installed some betaware with google gears that should let me compose replies while offline. Again, I only see myself being able to connect a few times a week, so please bear with me; they are coming!
And "Pole" means "Sorry!"
Sunday, February 22, 2009
Darwin's Nightmare
I had the opportunity to see a documentary called Darwin's Nightmare last night. The majority of this movie was filmed here in Mwanza, and it did a fairly good job of depicting the extremes of poverty found in this city.
The brief synopsis is as such: Some time in the mid 1950s or so, someone (the film insinuates someone of european decent) introduced the Nile Perch into Lake Victoria, where it had not previously been present. This fish is a top-level predator, and as such it then proceeded to eat the other fish around it, becoming the dominant species. These huge fish are not particularly amenable to netting, and must be caught by hand. Fast-forward to 2004- 25% of Tanzanian gross export is related to the movement of filets of River Perch from this region to Europe. The economic and societal impacts of this are far-reaching. While millions of tons of filets are exported by large russian planes out of the dilapidated and ill-equipped mwanza airport every day, millions of Tanzanians are starving to do death, forced to eat the remaining heads and carcases left behind after the filets are removed because they are unable to afford the filets themselves. The pilots of these planes feed into the local prostitution industry as well.
Its hard to watch. Its harder to be here having seen it; things look even more dire now. I've been to many of the places shown in the movie. And while I haven't been down to the beach communities just yet, I think I have to. I don't know that I'll ever look at a filet of fish the same way again. Definitely recommended viewing, you'll likely have to netflix or buy it, but be prepared for a very difficult 104min of suffering followed some serious introspection into how we live from day to day.
The brief synopsis is as such: Some time in the mid 1950s or so, someone (the film insinuates someone of european decent) introduced the Nile Perch into Lake Victoria, where it had not previously been present. This fish is a top-level predator, and as such it then proceeded to eat the other fish around it, becoming the dominant species. These huge fish are not particularly amenable to netting, and must be caught by hand. Fast-forward to 2004- 25% of Tanzanian gross export is related to the movement of filets of River Perch from this region to Europe. The economic and societal impacts of this are far-reaching. While millions of tons of filets are exported by large russian planes out of the dilapidated and ill-equipped mwanza airport every day, millions of Tanzanians are starving to do death, forced to eat the remaining heads and carcases left behind after the filets are removed because they are unable to afford the filets themselves. The pilots of these planes feed into the local prostitution industry as well.
Its hard to watch. Its harder to be here having seen it; things look even more dire now. I've been to many of the places shown in the movie. And while I haven't been down to the beach communities just yet, I think I have to. I don't know that I'll ever look at a filet of fish the same way again. Definitely recommended viewing, you'll likely have to netflix or buy it, but be prepared for a very difficult 104min of suffering followed some serious introspection into how we live from day to day.
Saturday, February 21, 2009
Habari?
Just got the chance to upload some photos while I work on a lecture for the medical students here for Tuesday. We are back at the Hotel Tilapia, utilizing their internet connection. The weather is again gorgeous today.
Made it down into the market today for the first time. My friend used the term "sensory overload" to describe it, and I think that is an apt description. Many people, all packed into a small-ish area. People all speaking rapidly in swahili, loud music occasionally blasting, and intense odors of all sorts. The roads vary in quality from full sized with paving, to alley sized or smaller, as small as 4-5 ft wide, composed of dirt, mud, and puddles. We also visited a small hide shop that focused on goods made of fish skin, lizard skin, and even some zebra stuff; products ranged from bookmarks, to wallets, to shoes. Very cool stuff.
Tonight I think we may try to experience some local nightlife again, perhaps hit a club. Tomorrow there is talk of visiting a local orphanage as well.
---
Habari
The literal translation is "the News" but it is a question, which most approximates "How goes it?" in english. It is commonly used in greeting someone, and is heard frequently on the street. Greetings are extremely important here, people often spend several minutes just saying hello, before saying anything else.
Made it down into the market today for the first time. My friend used the term "sensory overload" to describe it, and I think that is an apt description. Many people, all packed into a small-ish area. People all speaking rapidly in swahili, loud music occasionally blasting, and intense odors of all sorts. The roads vary in quality from full sized with paving, to alley sized or smaller, as small as 4-5 ft wide, composed of dirt, mud, and puddles. We also visited a small hide shop that focused on goods made of fish skin, lizard skin, and even some zebra stuff; products ranged from bookmarks, to wallets, to shoes. Very cool stuff.
Tonight I think we may try to experience some local nightlife again, perhaps hit a club. Tomorrow there is talk of visiting a local orphanage as well.
---
Habari
The literal translation is "the News" but it is a question, which most approximates "How goes it?" in english. It is commonly used in greeting someone, and is heard frequently on the street. Greetings are extremely important here, people often spend several minutes just saying hello, before saying anything else.
Friday, February 20, 2009
Karibu Mwanza!
I made it here unscathed! The flight in was actually on a small jet. but the airport we landed in was everything i expected. Nothing more than a concrete box with a tin roof, and only one level. The baggage claim was literally 5 ft from the tarmac, with them just throwing the bags at you. One of the staff looked at me and said "mzungu" and then decided to help me out. I don't think I could have managed the large crowds without her help.
A taxi driver was waiting for me there, and he helped me get out of the fray. The drive back was just as impressive as the ride to the Kempinki. markedly more foot traffic than car traffic.
The houses are very cool. two identical houses next to each other. Electricty has been relatively steady, though we lost power for several hours this morning. Mosquito nets are included. My room is small but adequate, with shelving for all my clothes.
My co-residents are awesome. 3 pediatric residents, 2 anesthesiology residents, and a pulmonary fellow from Cornell. They've all been so welcoming, and so great in terms of showing me the ropes.
I can't talk more right now, am currently doing this from a bar. Will write more soon, can't wait to post about my experience so far!
A taxi driver was waiting for me there, and he helped me get out of the fray. The drive back was just as impressive as the ride to the Kempinki. markedly more foot traffic than car traffic.
The houses are very cool. two identical houses next to each other. Electricty has been relatively steady, though we lost power for several hours this morning. Mosquito nets are included. My room is small but adequate, with shelving for all my clothes.
My co-residents are awesome. 3 pediatric residents, 2 anesthesiology residents, and a pulmonary fellow from Cornell. They've all been so welcoming, and so great in terms of showing me the ropes.
I can't talk more right now, am currently doing this from a bar. Will write more soon, can't wait to post about my experience so far!
Wednesday, February 18, 2009
Dar Es Salaam
I arrived safely in Dar Es Salaam. Staying the night here in one of their more posh hotels, the Kilimanjaro Kempinski (courtesy of a discount rate by the Touch foundation), then leaving at 830am for the airport.
A few thoughts:
The Nyerere International Airport here in Dar is everything I thought it would be: chaotic and frenetic in a sort of harmless way. Taxi drivers swarmed around me. They tried to lead me to an exchange counter with a poor rate. But once they started to pick up that, while I am certainly mzungu I did come with a plan, they backed off. Skylink Tanzania helped hold my bags for a bit while we waited for the shuttle.
The Hotel is amazing. Definitely earn their 5 stars. I wish I hadn't bundle packed my gym gear, but I still might try to hit the treadmill for a bit tomorrow morning. Great food. really cool lounge on the roof; I look forward to coming back here in 5 weeks and staying for a few days while I explore Dar.
Finally, the ride between the airport and the hotel- those who live in the US and were born post-great depression know not the extremes of poverty that exist here. the juxtaposition of shiny new banks and manufacturing centers with mud paths, massive groups of unemployed Tanzanians, and small rickshaws is impressive. I am sure this will be even more apparent in Mwanza.
REALLY finally- Tanzanian beers are light, a bit more flavorful but reminiscent of American lagers such as Budweiser and coors. I've tried Kili Serengeti lager and Tangu Safari Lager. Safari is a superior brew.
New photos of my time here in the hotel and in dar being uploaded as we speak- http://www.flickr.com/frankis/
--
Swahili word of the day: Mzungu- foreigner, and particularly a Caucasian foreigner. However, it is said that it does not carry a negative connotation.
A few thoughts:
The Nyerere International Airport here in Dar is everything I thought it would be: chaotic and frenetic in a sort of harmless way. Taxi drivers swarmed around me. They tried to lead me to an exchange counter with a poor rate. But once they started to pick up that, while I am certainly mzungu I did come with a plan, they backed off. Skylink Tanzania helped hold my bags for a bit while we waited for the shuttle.
The Hotel is amazing. Definitely earn their 5 stars. I wish I hadn't bundle packed my gym gear, but I still might try to hit the treadmill for a bit tomorrow morning. Great food. really cool lounge on the roof; I look forward to coming back here in 5 weeks and staying for a few days while I explore Dar.
Finally, the ride between the airport and the hotel- those who live in the US and were born post-great depression know not the extremes of poverty that exist here. the juxtaposition of shiny new banks and manufacturing centers with mud paths, massive groups of unemployed Tanzanians, and small rickshaws is impressive. I am sure this will be even more apparent in Mwanza.
REALLY finally- Tanzanian beers are light, a bit more flavorful but reminiscent of American lagers such as Budweiser and coors. I've tried Kili Serengeti lager and Tangu Safari Lager. Safari is a superior brew.
New photos of my time here in the hotel and in dar being uploaded as we speak- http://www.flickr.com/frankis/
--
Swahili word of the day: Mzungu- foreigner, and particularly a Caucasian foreigner. However, it is said that it does not carry a negative connotation.
The first leg
I'm currently sitting in Dubai's airport. I've never seen so many jewelry stores, electronic stores, watch boutiques, and perfume stores congregated so tightly together in my entire life. Take the most high-scale mall you've ever been to. Double it's high-scaleness. Welcome to Dubai international. Swanky stuff.
But of course juxtaposed to this is the mandatory starbucks and burgerkings ;)
Emirates is a serious airline. So many movies, television shows, and video games, HUGE meals, Multiple pillows. Also my flight was empty. Flying 12 hrs is not so bad when you have 3 seats to yourself!
Time to head over to my gate. And thanks to Adam for the new blog title!
But of course juxtaposed to this is the mandatory starbucks and burgerkings ;)
Emirates is a serious airline. So many movies, television shows, and video games, HUGE meals, Multiple pillows. Also my flight was empty. Flying 12 hrs is not so bad when you have 3 seats to yourself!
Time to head over to my gate. And thanks to Adam for the new blog title!
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Shikamoo!
Well the initial leg of my journey went without a hitch- I now have 4 hours to kill in JFK airport awaiting my first flight to dubai ;) I am very excited about the Emirates flight though.. per Ed's report, beer is free and there are 500 movies. I hope they have a good stout available!
I also just received email from both Sky Tanzania and the Hotel Kilimanjaro that my reservations and travel accommodations have been made from Dar International to the hotel, back to the airport the next day, and then to Mwanza. Things move at a significantly different pace in Africa, and I am sure this will work wonders for my excessive type a-ness.
--
Kiswahili lesson of the day: Shikamoo (prounounced "sheekamoo" is a greeting used showing high levels of respect, it is reserved for those who are older than you and is roughly translated to "Hello."
I also just received email from both Sky Tanzania and the Hotel Kilimanjaro that my reservations and travel accommodations have been made from Dar International to the hotel, back to the airport the next day, and then to Mwanza. Things move at a significantly different pace in Africa, and I am sure this will work wonders for my excessive type a-ness.
--
Kiswahili lesson of the day: Shikamoo (prounounced "sheekamoo" is a greeting used showing high levels of respect, it is reserved for those who are older than you and is roughly translated to "Hello."
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