Zanzibar update

A brief update on my location/status etc.

I've made it to Zanzibar, but was unable to post about it initially due to difficulty in finding internet connectivity. My technical situation has worsened significantly here: I think the fluctuating power supply in Tanzania has permanently damaged my battery in my laptop, a full charge now lasts only 15-20 minutes or so. Ironically, Internet access and electrical outlets are frequently not in the same place. So until I get to Dar Es Salaam for my final night, it may be harder for me to post.

My trip to Zanzibar was fairly stressful. It started with a flight from Mwanza to Dar Es Salaam, and was then supposed to be followed by a ferry ride to the island; it is about 25km off the coast of the Tanzania. Things appeared to initially be going smoothly. My taxi to the airport arrived on time in Mwanza. I got to the airport and checked in, and yet again had to pay the "weight overlimit" fee of 2000 Tsh per 1kg over, and I was 10kg over the limit of 20kg. An aside: how does one pack for 6 weeks and have their luggage be any less than 20kg?? Anyway... I also noticed lots of passengers bringing large plastic opaque jugs and styrofoam containers with corporate names up and checking them, and thought that a bit odd.

I boarded the plane, it was a larger propeller plane, with an engine on each wing, and about 40 seats. I saw them bring my large, rather awesomely garish lime green duffle trolly over to the plane, and even saw them put it into the cargo hold area. I thought I was safe, and closed my eyes for a bit as it was still fairly early and I was up late packing. So, I was quite shocked to notice that, as we began to taxi, my bag was sitting on the runway about 100 yards from the plane. Needless to say, my flight from Mwanza to Dar was not a relaxed one. This is Africa.

Two hours later, I arrived in Dar, expecting the worst. I made it in one piece (and given that Mwanza International Airport has no real Air Traffic Control system, this was something I was quite grateful for, all things considered). And as I had suspected, my luggage had not been so lucky. I brought my electronics in a rucksack and several days worth of clothes and few fragile souvenirs in another carry on, but my duffle with all of the remainder of my items (re: most of them) was nowhere to be found. I went to lost and found, where I found about 15 other passengers had a similar issue, many with connecting flights (one poor girl had a connecting flight to Dubai in 6 hours, and then was off to Manila).

So what happened? Per the staff of precision air, the actual airline(!!), our luggage was removed from the plane in order to make more room for fish transportation . I couldn't make something like this up if I had wanted to! So I spent the day in Dar Es Salaam awaiting my luggage. Noticing that the next flight from Mwanza was at 4pm, I deduced that I wold most likely be missing the last ferry to Zanzibar, which left at 4pm. So, not to be deterred from meeting two friends on the island, I quickly ascended the management chain of Precision Air at Dar Es Salaam Airport, and when done, had a plane ticket for a small plane leaving at 18:00 for Zanzibar Int'l Airport, at a markedly reduced rate (32,000 Tsh, less than the 50,000 Tsh ferry ticket), and waived luggage allowance for that flight.

Thankfully, my luggage arrived around 16:45, and I was able to easily make it to my 18:00 flight, which lasted all of 15 minutes. Once here in Dar I was able to get a cheap taxi to the Clove Hotel, where I have now been for two days.

Zanzibar is amazing. It is incredibly hot and humid here. You sweat sitting still in the shade with a good breeze. The sun feels as if it is 10 feet from you, you can feel it beating at your skin. The beaches are white, the water is blue and clear, probably around 75 deg. F. 40 -50 Dhows litter the coast off of Stone Town in the evening. The island is 90% Muslim, and the architecture is a mixture of Arabic and Indian. The streets here in Stone Town are tiny, about 5-6 feet across, with shops on the first flood and apartments occupying the 2nd, 3rd, an 4th floors. Most locals wear traditional Muslim garb, though I don't know how the women manage in this heat.

I went on a spice tour yesterday morning. Spices are the island's main export, particularly clove, but also including Coriander, chili, pepper, cumin, coffee, cocoa beans, lemon grass, etc. An interesting note about cocoa- the island exports massive amounts of dried and roasted cocoa beans, annually, but lacks the processing ability to actually make chocolate, so they end up importing it from Switzerland and Germany, of course for markedly elevated prices.

I went on a walking tour of Stone Town early in the afternoon yesterday, and then spent a few hours sipping a Tusker lager on the beach until about 5pm. Dinner consisted of some very fresh Marlin, the seasoning was of course top notch.

So, next up is Dar Es Salaam, one more night there, and then the final journey begins. My hotel there promises to have both internet and electricity, so I am hoping I can upload some photos then, and even write more about Safari. Sorry for this brief interlude!

Tuta onano badai (see you later)